Before you even dip a toe in the water, you can feel it—this place moves at the rhythm of the sea. But it wasn’t always protected.
In the mid-20th century, developers eyed the underwater world of the Florida Keys as one big opportunity. Dynamite fishing, coral harvesting, and unchecked tourism threatened the only living barrier reef in the continental United States.
Enter John D. Pennekamp, a Miami newspaper editor who thought the ocean deserved a voice.
In 1963, thanks to his activism, Florida established the country’s first underwater state park—an idea so strange at the time, it made national headlines. Visitors would snorkel instead of hike. The trail markers? Coral heads and sea fans.
And here’s the kicker: the park is home to a submerged 4,000-pound bronze statue of Jesus.
Welcome to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, where wild ecosystems, undersea sculpture, and fish with more attitude than a flock of roosters all collide in the turquoise waters off Key Largo.
If you’re looking for the edge of the world, start at the Visitor Center.
It feels more like a tiny ocean museum than a state park welcome hub. Inside: floor-to-ceiling aquariums, live coral tanks, and a film room where the original 1960s reef preservation documentaries play like propaganda films from a better world.
Here, children press their noses to the glass, tracing the tails of yellow tangs. Meanwhile, adults learn that over 600 species of fish—and 70 kinds of coral—call these waters home.
Out back? The real world awaits: 70 nautical square miles of protected sea, from shallow mangrove swamps to rainbow-tinted reefs.
The main draw? Getting wet.
Most folks board a glass-bottom boat tour, a slow-floating cinema over the reef. On a calm day, you’ll see brain coral the size of basketballs, purple sea fans swaying like flamenco skirts, and parrotfish so colorful they seem AI-generated.
But if your family’s feeling bolder, opt for the snorkel tours. The boats leave several times a day for sites like Molasses Reef and Banana Reef—names that sound silly until you’re swimming over them, feeling like a bird flying low over a kaleidoscopic landscape.
And then there’s the statue.
Thirty feet below the surface, arms raised skyward, stands Christ of the Abyss—a bronze replica of a famous Italian sculpture placed here in 1965. Divers whisper about the eerie calm it emits. Some call it a pilgrimage. Others, a surreal photo op. Either way, it’s unforgettable.
If your crew needs a land break, Cannon Beach is perfect for kids.
There’s no surf, no stingrays, no chaos—just calm, sandy-bottomed water and… yes, real 17th-century Spanish cannons embedded in the shallows. Bring goggles and a sense of adventure. The park won’t stop you from pretending you’re a pirate.
Another underrated option? The Mangrove Trail, a shaded boardwalk hike through tangled trees where herons lurk, and fiddler crabs wave tiny claws in greeting. It’s only half a mile, but your kids might insist on walking it three times.
Locals know the trick: come early, or come just before sunset, when the golden light makes the water glow from below like it’s lit from within.
Hungry?
Start at The Fish House, just outside the park entrance. The walls are covered in nautical kitsch, the key lime pie is legendary, and the “matecumbe-style” grilled fish—topped with tomato, onion, basil, and capers—is a regional staple worth the drive alone.
For a more casual, sand-in-your-sandals kind of meal, check out Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen. It’s been slinging burgers, conch chowder, and key lime milkshakes since 1976. Ask for a booth under the license plate ceiling.
If you’re still around for dinner, Hobo’s Café is a family-friendly favorite with eco-conscious flair: fresh catch, fair prices, and giant salads served in bowls bigger than your head.
Where should you stay?
Families love the quirky, colorful Amoray Dive Resort—built for snorkelers and divers, with direct boat access and hammocks overlooking the sea.
For a laid-back tropical vibe, check into the Bayside Inn Key Largo, where sunsets are a nightly event and iguanas occasionally join you by the pool.
Want something a little more upscale but still kid-welcoming? Try the Playa Largo Resort & Spa—yes, it’s a Marriott Autograph Collection property, but its beach, playground, and fire pits make it feel less like a hotel and more like a very fancy summer camp.
Some curious facts to tuck in your beach bag:
- Pennekamp was the first undersea park in the U.S.—and one of only a few in the world.
- The Christ of the Abyss statue weighs nearly two tons.
- Over 1 million people visit the park every year, yet the coral is still thriving.
- A healthy coral reef can protect shorelines from up to 97% of wave energy during storms.
And here’s something you won’t find on a brochure:
Rangers say the best time to spot baby nurse sharks is late summer, near the mangroves. Look for gentle swirls in the sand and flicks of a tail. They’re shy but curious, like underwater puppies. And they won’t bite—not unless you’re a crab.
By the time you pack up your snorkel gear and wash off the salt, you might feel a little lighter. Not just from the sun and water—but from knowing you visited a place built entirely around the idea of saving something precious.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park isn’t just a place to vacation—it’s a living argument for why places like this matter. A reminder that beauty, once lost, doesn’t grow back.
But here? It’s still growing, blooming, swimming—and waving at you through the glass-bottom of a boat.
